Good advice from all the above. Puros to Syncro more like 250km. Follow the road NW out of Puros past Orupembe and Rooidrom to Marble Camp and stay over. Use Tracks4Africa GPS and/or map. Routes reliable and visible. Then through very dry Marienfluss and stop for ice cold beer at kookashop at holy mountain Ondau (diesel available sometimes from @ N30/l). Stay over at Syncro. Then back over Van Zyls pass or long detour around south to Marble again and possible early stay over OR go for one of the community camps along the very slow track past Otjihende, Otjitanda to Okangwati OR overnight in bush somewhere in between. You need Tracks4Africa!! There’s no-one to ask except a Himba herdsman here and there. This particular track VERY bad offroad with dead slow sections. Vehicle damage guaranteed if you’re not careful. It’s 280km plus from Marble to Epupa and not easily do-able in one day unless maybe if you use Van Zyls pass. Saw video at Marble camp of chap who comfortably did Van Zyls in 200 series diesel LC with trailer day before us. Trick is SLOW and CAREFUL. From Okangwati to Epupa easy and from there back east to Ruacana civilisation easy. Rains followed us from the north all the way down. Now in Dec Kunene was in flood at Ruacana and at Epupa. Dry riverbeds were all in flood or about to be flooded. Had issues at Swartbooisdrif. In fact, down south at Puros had to stay longer for river to subside and further down Hoanib also challenged us. Use Tracks4Africa GPS and/or maps and preferably take another vehicle with driver who understands long distance travel on bad corrugation and zero refueling and tyre eating vehc damaging off roading where there is no help. We had a (non-Toyota) breakdown north of Puros and it took recovery vehc to be called in 600km from Swakop! If you drive carefully it’s however easily do-able. I must compliment the campsite of Michael on the northern side of the Puros river. Great guy with his wife – great amenities (lodges and campsite)! We did not stay in the community campsite further downriver towards the river crossing. True what someone said above about the attitude of the fancy lodges throughout Kaokoland. They don’t like people wandering in seeking help (staff very helpful but not the owners). Best is to avoid them and be self sufficient. Diesel available from village trader on southern side of Puros river. Kaokoland is generally fuel-less and no card facilities. Carry cash because the odd place with card facilities along the Kunene not reliable. Long range diesel fuel tank required plus at least 2 full jerrycans. Petrol even worse. Must be able to do 1000km plus north from Puros on own 6-7km/l capacity otherwise you ae forced to drive all the way past Opuwo. General comment about Kaokoland is that it remains especially remote and naturally beautiful despite the searing drought. Dead Himba cattle everywhere – even few dead sebra and oryx. Here you’ll see why the Kanniedood trees (Corkwoods – Commiphora species) got the right Afrikaans name: they’re the only ones looking well in this terrible drought and there are special ones only to be found there. Heart breaking for me that modern day accessibility, misguided philanthropy (dishing out sweets and left over food etc) and the longstanding drought have made the once proud Himba nation a nation of beggars…
