The road snakes like a puff adder, its coils concealed by the mountains around it. The turns at the top of the pass could easily rival the sharpness of fangs.
It was a clear day when we set out to take on the pass between South Africa and Lesotho, 1332 metres in altitude, to reach the Highest Pub in Africa. More than just a place for a drink, the pub is a reward. Summiting at 2876 metres above sea level, this is no small challenge.
You need the right vehicle to take on the pass. Knowing this, I adjusted the seat of my grandfather’s 2005 Mazda 2.5 D 4×4 and turned the key.
The coil light went out and the engine gave a disgruntled grumble as it rumbled into life. I headed towards the main Coleford road, the mountains on my left like freshly baked brownies dusted lightly with icing sugar.
Turning onto the R617, I made my way to the beginning of the famous gravel road. The decrepit shell of an old building is the fi rst marker. This was once used as a taxi stop: people would crowd around it waiting to be ferried up and down the treacherous road by minibus taxis. Now, only 4×4 vehicles may ascend.
The steering wheel jerked as I hit a rock, jostling the car. The first part of the journey was spent navigating the rocky road and gawping at the scenery. There are several spots under construction below the South African Border post, and these should be navigated carefully.
Once you have passed them, the road does not require fourwheel- drive, unless it is wet. To cross the border is easy. Just take your passport and tell the offi cials how long you will be spending in Lesotho.
The pass now begins to slowly creep up the side of the mountain, clinging to the rock, or cutting through it. The going is relatively easy and the view is the main attraction.
Approximately seven kilometres from the SA border post, you have to engage 4WD. The road turns on you, and almost back on itself. Here lies the adder’s back.
The hairpin bends on loose rock and shale are a concern on the sunniest day, but I had to deal with them in mist. For the hardest part of the drive, the last 1.7 kilometres, I could see only metres past my bonnet; and the shale under my tyres was wet and slippery. To make it up the last stretch, I had to engage low range and crawl.
The corners barely fitted the length of the car, and with each bump on the steering wheel I had to fi ght to keep the car straight to prevent us from falling into the valley far below.
After a small navigation error that took us past the pub and down a beautiful road to the Sani River, we arrived at the Highest Pub in Africa for a warm meal and rewarding drink. The walls of the bar are encrusted with a million messages from fellow travellers who have conquered Sani Pass.
The food at the top will fill you up and leave you smiling for the journey back into SA. This is easier than going up: just engage four-wheel-drive, and, in second gear, let the car drive itself down the winding road while you drink in the scenery.
I suggest that you make this trip soon. There are plans to tar the iconic gravel road and turn a worthy goal into an everyday tourist destination.